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REPAIRING
HOLES AND CRACKS IN DRYWALL
Holes up to a couple of inches across and
cracks in your interior drywall walls can be easily
repaired. Pin holes can be repaired with a bit of joint
compound or filler putty.
For larger holes,
use the procedure explained below, or purchase a repair
patch at a hardware store or home center. These patches
consist of self-adhesive metal or fiberglass mesh that
can be used to bridge the hole and support the joint
compound.
Repairing pinholes: For very small
holes, apply joint compound to the void with a putty
knife. After drying, sand until
smooth.
For larger holes, follow these
steps:
1. Patching larger holes: For larger
holes, cut pegboard slightly larger than the hole, but
which you can get through the hole. You'll use this as a
backing for your patch.
2. Fasten backing to wall: Tie wire to
it, smear compound on hardboard, and slip into wall. The
backing will cling to the inside surface of the
wall.
3. Secure backing: Tie wire to a
pencil and twist tight. After patch dries, cut the wire
off and fill the recess with
compound.
4. Finish patch: Fill with two or
three thin coats of compound, lightly sand, and sponge
to blend repair. Prime and paint.
Plaster Walls
If your
home has plaster walls, you will have to periodically
repair them because of settling. This is true whether
you own a site-built or factory-built home. And if you
are going to re-paint any walls, you can probably resign
yourself to having to patch before every paint job.
Harmless cracks will return with regularity
no matter how often you fill them. Watch, though, for
loose or crumbly cracks, holes, and bulges; these may
mean you have a leak. If you have a leak, fix it before
doing any work on the walls.
To repair walls, here's the materials you may
need:
1. Dry-mix joint compound is strong,
making it a good choice for wide cracks and
holes.
2. Vinyl surfacing compound is soft and
flexible. Use it for narrow cracks or holes.
3.
Patching plaster or gauging plaster creates a genuine
plaster surface, but it takes time to learn how apply it
correctly.
4.
Latex/silicone caulk stays flexible
and so can accommodate shifting
cracks.
Aerosol crack seal is ideal for small
cracks. Spray it just before
priming.
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HOW TO INSTALL HEAT
TAPE
In the below article, we showed you
how to thaw out a frozen water pipe. It's better to
prevent your pipes from freezing in the first place. And
if you haven't done it yet, it's still not too late to
install heat tape to protect them in the first place.
It's also relatively easy to install heat tape, and, of
course, it's a good way to prevent major damage to your
factory-built home. If your freshwater pipes are already
wrapped in heat tape, check the heat tape again to
ensure it was properly installed, and periodically check
the heat tape to make sure it isn't worn or frayed. The
coldest months are still just ahead.
By the way, you should apply heat
tape to all exterior water supply piping and shutoff
valves. You should also protect any interior water pipes
that run along outside walls or anywhere that the
temperature may drop below freezing.
How much heat tape you will need
depends on the length, size and type of the pipe. You
need to know the pipe length and diameter and the number
of valves or faucets along the run. To determine how
much heat tape you'll require, consult the
manufacturer's guidelines.
If your water supply piping is
plastic, ONLY use automatic thermostatically controlled
heat tape. Non-automatic heat tapes can damage plastic
pipes, especially if the taped pipes are covered with
insulation. For this job you'll need automatic heat tape
(the kind with a thermostat), electrical tape, and pipe
insulation (which could take the form of a waterproof
insulated pipe jacket, or pipe insulation with vapor
seal cover). Some heat tape kits combine several of
these items.
First: Check pipes
Don't install heat tape over leaking pipes. Not only
will a slow leak damage insulation, but it may also
short out the heat tape. Pay particular attention when
you check the pipe joints for leaks.
Next: Attach to
pipe
Use only automatic heat tape, with
heavy rubber insulation around the wires. Don't use
non-automatic heat tape, as this could damage plastic
pipes. Start with the plug end next to the outlet, and
run the heat tape the entire length of the freshwater
supply pipe. Also wrap the water pipe below ground
level, to the frost level. Methods for attaching heat
tape to the pipe vary. Some types of heat tape wrap
around the pipe, some run along one side of the pipe.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Third: Attach heat
tape
Be sure to space your wraps according
to the manufacturer's guidelines. Use electrical tape,
not electrical wire, to hold the heat tape in place. It
is very important that you never cross the heat tape
back over itself: this creates a real fire hazard.
Fourth: Insulate
It's a good idea to cover the water pipe and heat
tape with pipe insulation or pipe jacketing. If the
insulation does not have a weather-protective outer
surface, you will need to cover it with a waterproof
wrap.
Finally: Plug it
in
Don't forget to plug in your heat tape
once it's installed. Never use an extension cord. The
heat tape must plug directly into a Ground Fault Circuit
Interrupter (GFCI) receptacle. You should find a GFCI
protected outlet underneath your factory-built home,
near the water inlet. If not, you will need to install
one.
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WHAT TO DO IF YOUR PIPES
FREEZE
If your water
pipes are exposed in any way this winter, chances are
they are going to freeze. And when water freezes, it
tries to expand inside the pipe. This means it pushes
against the sides of the pipe, as well as any nearby
valves, seams and faucets. The freezing action of the
water is more than capable of rupturing any
pipe.
Sometimes water
pipes may freeze even if you have taken precautions.
Maybe you lose electrical power for several hours, the
temperature inside your house falls and the pipes
freeze. Or maybe you've gone away for a few days, turned
down the heat and weren't expecting an early blizzard.
Or perhaps your heat tape quit working, and you didn't
find out until you discovered none of the faucets
worked.
Whatever the
cause, it's important that you thaw out your pipe for
two reasons:
1. First, you
need the water.
2. Second, you
want to be there when the pipe thaws, just in case
the pipe and/or joint is ruptured.
Bear in mind
that a frozen pipe doesn't leak - the water is ice.
You'll discover you have a leak only after the ice
melts. If you're not home, a ruptured pipe can cause a
great deal of damage.
Here are some
methods to thaw out frozen pipes:
(But before you
try any of these methods, first open the faucet the
frozen pipe supplies. The steam you create while heating
the pipe can burst the pipe if it doesn't have an
escape.)
Try
This: Use electric heat tape on the pipe, and
wait for it to thaw out. This is a good method to use
because it slowly thaws the pipe, which means it reduces
wear and tear on the pipe itself.
(Remember to
use only heat tape certified by a nationally recognized
testing laboratory for use with mobile homes. Be careful
never to wrap the heat tape back over itself. This could
cause the heat tape to overheat and start a fire.)
Another
Method: Wrap the pipe with several layers of
cloth or toweling and pour hot water over the cloth /
toweling. Repeat several times until the pipe is
unfrozen.
Third
Method: Direct a heat lamp on the pipe itself.
Place the lamp at least a foot away from the pipe. Cover
adjacent areas with a layer of aluminum foil so the heat
does not scorch these materials. Make sure the heat lamp
is on dry ground. Even better, plug it into a ground
Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlet.
(Do not use any
direct heating method if the frozen pipe is next to a
gas pipe! Call a professional for help.)
Method
#4: Hold a hand-operated hair dryer to the
pipe, and slowly move up and down the length of the
frozen section. Make sure you are standing on dry
ground. Because you are working this close to water,
plug the dryer into a GFCI protected outlet.
You will know
the pipe is thawed out when water starts to trickle out
of the open faucet. Let the water run for a while to
completely clear the pipe. Then, close the faucet and
check for leaks.
(Do not use a
propane torch to thaw out frozen pipes. Do not use a
propane torch even if it has a fire spreader attachment.
This is not only a fire hazard, bit it's also a quick
way to destroy your plastic plumbing pipes.)
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Preventive Maintenance Pays
Off
Keeping
your factory built home maintained and functioning
properly prevents numerous future problems and makes
living in your home more comfortable and affordable in
the long run. This includes controlling pests, bugs, and
other varmints from invading and taking up residency in
your home. What follows are some pest prevention tips
that should assist you in eliminating pest infestation
before it becomes a problem:
- Check for gaps in your home skirting
or foundation;
- Repair holes in screens;
- Repair rips or holes in belly
board;
- Seal and caulk windows and
doors;
- Inspect roof vents, siding, eaves,
gutters and air conditioner for openings;
- Treat all wood surfaces in contact
with the earth with an insecticide;
- Do not install bird feeders near your
home;
- Keep all garbage or trash in covered
containers;
- If you have pets, continually check
them for fleas and ticks and treat
accordingly.
To
eradicate pests try any or all of the following
methods:
- Spray the interior wood with an
insecticide.
- Fill cracks on exterior lumber with
caulking or asphalt roofing cement;
- Regularly use a household insecticide
throughout your home;
- Replace damaged lumber with treated
wood.
These are just a few of the ways to make
sure you eliminate or minimize the various pests trying
to infest your home. These will help you keep your home
more comfortable, affordable, and beautiful for years to
come.
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CHECKING YOUR HOME
Summer is a good
time to inspect your home and property and make any
necessary repairs or preparations for coming cold
weather to follow. You need to start with a general
visual inspection of your home and
yard.
You might begin
with your roof. Be sure to clear off any debris. Check
the gutters and clean them out if they need it.
If you have a
shingled roof, look for missing or loose shingles or
flashing and repair those that are damaged. If you have
a metal roof, inspect the coating and re-coat if
necessary. Also check nearby trees to see if they pose a
threat to your roof. If so, trim branches or remove the
trees.
Be sure you
inspect fences, railings and foundation or skirting.
Plan repairs as needed. Your foundation wall or skirting
keeps pests out from under your home and keeps your home
cooler in the summer.
Check entrance steps and make
sure they are stable and in good condition. Rake any
mounds of gravel or dirt that may have accumulated, and
pick up any debris on your lawn.
Make sure you
inspect bushes, shrubs and other landscaping and trim or
remove if necessary. Also check your home's siding and
wash it if needed.
Finally, inspect
your windows and screens. Repair any damaged screens and
wash windows before installing the screens. Also, check
the underside of your home for damage, debris collection
or animal nesting situations and make needed
repairs.
Then sit back, relax and
enjoy the rest of the summer
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REPLACING YOUR WORN OUT SHINGLES
The process for installing shingles on
factory built homes is the same as site-built homes, but
on a site-built home, two or three layers of shingles
are acceptable. On a manufactured home, one layer is the
limit. This means if your shingles need replacing, you
can't solve the problem by covering them with a second
layer of shingles.
The reason is simple: weight. A square of
shingles that only covers 100 square feet, weighs about
240 pounds. Your roof might require nine or more
squares. Most manufactured home roof trusses aren't
built to handle the weight of a double layer of
shingles.
Fiberglass and asphalt shingles are durable,
water resistant, roofing materials. Under ideal
conditions, some of the higher quality shingles may last
30 years. If your shingles have been up for 15 or more
years, you might need to re-roof in the not-too-distant
future - especially if you live in a snow belt or high
heat area. In addition, shingles on manufactured homes
with low-slope roofs have a tendency to wear out
earlier. On a roof with less pitch, the shingles are
more exposed to sun, water and
snow.
You should periodically examine your shingles
for damage after you have removed all debris. Check them
every spring and fall, and after a hailstorm or high
winds. Promptly replace any cracked, curled-up, broken
or missing shingles. If you don't, rain water could seep
under the sheathing and leak into your sidewalls or
ceiling. Examine the roof up close from a ladder.
Particularly check the roof ridge and valleys for
cracked shingles.
Should you decide to replace your shingles,
you will need the
following:
Materials:
- replacement
shingles
- roofing
nails
- roofing
cement
Tools:
- hammer
- utility
knife
- long
knife
- piece
of plywood.
The steps to replace your shingles are as
follows:
STEP 1: Cut through sealer
strips.
If installed properly, each shingle should have eight
nails holding it in place: four in the middle, about ½
inch above the tab cutouts (these four nails also go
through the top of the shingle below), and four along
the top (these four nails are pounded through the middle
of the shingle above). See the diagram that shows how
shingles are installed.
To replace one shingle, you need to loosen at
least three shingles: the one being replaced and the two
shingles on the two rows above the damaged shingle. You
will need to cut through the sealer strip (also called
"adhesive line") on these shingles. The sealer strip is
a dashed line of asphalt adhesive that runs across the
middle of the shingle. To loosen, slide a long knife,
putty knife or small crowbar under the damaged shingle.
The tool must reach over halfway up the shingle. Slide
it along the entire length of the shingle. Repeat this
procedure for the shingles on the two rows above the
damaged shingle.
STEP 2:
Remove nails along middle of damaged shingle.
You do not want to crack or split the shingles above or
below the damaged shingle. Carefully slide a pry bar
under the damaged shingle. You might want to slide a
piece of plywood under the pry bar to protect the
shingle underneath. Gently pry up the damaged shingle,
being careful not to damage the shingles above. You do
not need to pry the damaged shingle up very far - just
enough to loosen the four middle nails. Remove the pry
bar and plywood. Carefully lift up the tabs on the
shingle above the damaged shingle. Work the nails (in
the middle of the damaged shingle) back and forth with
your fingers until you can remove
them.
STEP 3:
Repeat procedure on next level. Remove the four
nails holding down the top of the damaged shingle.
Because these nails are also holding down the middle of
the shingle just above, you will need to gently pry up
this shingle to loosen nails.
Carefully slide the pry bar under the shingle
just above the damaged shingle. Repeat the previous
procedure to loosen nails. You do not need to remove
these nails. Loosen them just enough so they no longer
go through the damaged
shingle.
STEP 4:
Remove shingle. Slide out the damaged shingle.
Use it to size the replacement shingle (if it is not
full width.)
STEP 5:
Replace shingle. Make sure the replacement
shingle is the same size as the old shingle. If not, use
a utility knife to cut to fit. Slide new shingle into
place, and set flush with adjacent shingles. It should
fit snugly.
STEP 6: Nail. Attach
shingle with roofing nails. To prevent leaks, pound
nails in already existing holes. If this is not
possible, seal the existing nail holes in the
shingles with roofing
cement.
You will probably need to pound in the nails
after you have laid all the shingles flat. This means
you will have to hit the nails through the shingle
immediately above. To prevent damaging the shingles,
place a board on top of the shingle and hit the hammer
on the board.
STEP 7:
Cement. Cover all the nails with roofing
cement. Press the upper
shingles on top of the cement to seal. You may need to
weight it down
overnight.
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KEEP YOUR SIDING LOOKING
NEW
A little maintenance work on your part
will keep your siding looking new and lasting longer.
There are two reasons for providing regular maintenance
of your home’s siding: appearance and protection. Your
siding protects your home against natural elements and
pests, adds stability to the frame of your home, helps
insulate and it also adds character to the outside of
the home. Although there are several different types of
siding you can choose from for factory-built homes, the
three most common found on Karsten homes are
cement-based siding, vinyl siding and wood siding.
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Cement-Based
Siding
With cement-based siding, you
can give your home a good washing for a fresh new
look.
· Make sure you close all the windows, doors
and vents.
· Cover anything on the house you
don’t want to get wet. Use plastic bags and tarps with
duct tape to cover bushes, outdoor furniture and light
fixtures.
· Attach a soft car-washing brush to
your garden hose and wash off the dirt.
·
Remove tree sap and any other stubborn stains. First
soak the sap with raw linseed oil, mineral spirits, or
auto bug and tar remover. Let stand until soft. Wipe
with a clean cloth.
· You can use household
detergent to clean the siding or purchase a cleaning
compound specifically for your siding material.
Several varieties are available at manufactured home
supply stores.
· Wash your siding from top to
bottom to keep the lower area wet, preventing
detergent lines.
· Rinse off the cleaner.
Attach a spray nozzle to your hose to increase water
pressure.
· Dry the siding with a towel from
the top down.
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Vinyl
Siding
Vinyl’s durable surface makes
it the easiest siding to maintain. It won’t rot, peel
or show scratches because good quality vinyl siding
permeates its color throughout the entire thickness of
the panel. Although vinyl is virtually maintenance
free, keep your siding in the best condition to make
its lifetime last even longer.
· Don’t rely on
a rainstorm to keep your siding clean. Give it a good
cleaning at least once a year to keep sediment and
grime off its surface.
· Replace any damaged
panels. New panels are quick and easy to
install.
· If your vinyl siding has a wood
grain or pebble finish, it will hold dirt and require
more frequent washing.
· If you do not have
rain gutters, your house will need more frequent
cleaning.
· Rubbing compound scratches vinyl
surfaces.
· Vinyl siding is brittle in very
cold weather. Be careful not to hit or strike it, or
it might shatter.
Keep grills from vinyl. Exposing
the vinyl to intense heat will melt the
siding.
You might think that a paint job would
be an inexpensive and easy solution to make faded
vinyl siding look like new again. But paint does not
hold well to vinyl’s surface because it continuously
changes with the weather. Vinyl soaks up heat causing
expansion and contraction as temperatures rise and
fall. Instead of a short-term painting job, consider
replacing your siding altogether. Check with a several
retailers to see the variety of colors and textures to
choose from. Ask them about lifetime warranties or
guarantees that they offer.
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Wood
Siding Cedar, Cypress and Redwood
sidings are popular siding choices that offer natural
beauty to the outside of a home. But wood siding
requires more upkeep than most siding because of its
natural surface. With regular maintenance and care,
you can prevent damage and keep your wood siding
looking beautiful for several years. · Caulk
any joints, holes or cracks with a paint-able caulk.
Seal the bottom of the panels and any chips. ·
Paint or stain the wood every four years. Check the
manufacturer's guidelines to see what kind of paint or
stain works best with the wood on your home. ·
Keep an eye out for critters. Birds, insects and
rodents love to make a home or a meal out of wood
siding. · Keep sprinklers away from the home.
Heavy exposure to water might result in decay,
chipping, bowed or expanded panels, disintegration or
shrinkage. Wood siding resides best in dry
regions. · Check the paint for flaking and
re-cover any exposed surface.
Prepare to
paint:
-
Thoroughly wash the exterior
of your home.
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Caulk any cracks or holes along the
panels, around corners or around windows with a
paint-able caulk.
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Cover everything you don't want
painted (windows, doors, the roof, etc.) with
newspapers, drop cloths, tarps or masking tape. It's
much easier to cover these areas beforehand than to
remove paint later.
Before you’re ready to apply an oil-based
metal paint primer, the siding needs to be completely
dry. Mix one gallon of the oil-based paint primer with
one pint of paint thinner. Tint the primer to a lighter
shade of the paint color you choose. The primer will
help the new paint adhere to the surface and provide an
extra color coat. Let the primer dry completely before
adding the next coat of paint.
Use acrylic-based,
latex exterior house paint over the primer. A high
volume of acrylic resin in the paint will make the paint
job last longer. Invest in premium paint, brushes and
roller covers. Bargain paint is no bargain if you’re
looking for better coverage, longer wear and a more
washable surface.
To compute the amount of paint
needed, multiply the height of the house times the
entire perimeter. Do not subtract for windows because
this area will roughly equal the trim, eaves and
soffits. Divide the total square footage by the number
of square feet per gallon cited on the label of the
paint.
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Joanne L. Gardiner,
Broker, e-PRO
Realtor
Advantage Realty
Advantage
Mortgage Associates
3205 Whipple Road - Union City,
California 94587
(510) 429-4800
San
Francisco Bay Area
San Francisco East Bay Real
Estate
web site: http://www.joannegardiner.com
Call Joanne
for manufactured homes in Hayward, manufactured
homes in Union City, manufactured homes in Fremont,
manufactured homes in San Leandro, manufactured homes in
Pleasanton, manufactured homes in Livermore,
manufactured homes in the east bay, manufactured
homes on the peninsula, manufactured homes
in the San Francisco East Bay, manufactured
homes in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Call Joanne
for mobile homes in Hayward, mobile homes in Union City,
mobile homes in Fremont, mobile homes in San Leandro,
mobile homes in Pleasanton, mobile homes in Livermore,
mobile homes in the east bay, mobile homes on the
peninsula, mobile homes in the San Francisco
East Bay, mobile homes in the San Francisco Bay
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